The Fateful Yahoo Auction Discovery
It all began with a poorly lit listing on Yahoo Auctions Japan. The photos were fuzzy, the description vague—just "Vintage Chronograph, Excelsior Park movement." But something about the dial layout felt familiar.
Having read Tomas Rosputinsky's deep dive on Fratello and studied the now-defunct Galletworld archives, I recognized the telltale signs: the oval subdials, the distinctive "snail" tachymeter scale. This wasn't just any old chronograph—it might be the elusive Gallet Commander, a watch with one of the most unusual movements ever made.
The Bidding War That Felt Like a Boxing Match
When the auction entered its final hours, it became a two-person duel. For what felt like an eternity—two full hours—we traded blows, each countering the other's bid within seconds. The price climbed beyond what I'd budgeted, but I couldn't walk away. How often does a Gallet Commander surface, let alone one that hasn't been butchered by over-polishing or redials?
When the clock finally ran out, the watch was mine. Relief. Excitement. Then, the real fun began.
The 15.8mm Lug Width Surprise
Eager to replace the cracked old strap, I grabbed one of my 16mm quick-release leather straps—only to find it wouldn’t fit. A quick measurement revealed the problem: 15.8mm lugs. Just 0.2mm narrower than standard 16mm straps, rendering my quick-release spring bars useless.
Since quick-release spring bars only work with whole-number lug widths (like 16mm, 18mm, etc.), my Gallet Commander’s 15.8mm lugs posed a problem. Rather than force an ill-fitting strap, I saw an opportunity: a custom-made 16mm two-stitch strap in burgundy red shell cordovan, designed to accommodate regular spring bars.
The rich, deep red of the cordovan complements the watch’s vintage military aesthetic beautifully, while the traditional spring bars ensure a secure fit without stressing the lugs. The slight flexibility of the leather also helps it conform to the ever-so-slightly undersized lug width, making it both functional and elegant.
Four Variants of the Gallet Commander
According to the Galletworld archives, the Commander came in four distinct versions, all produced between 1938 and 1948. The most common version features a two-register layout with the iconic "snail" tachymeter scale, bold Arabic numerals, and often retains its original radium lume that has aged to a creamy patina. The cleanest and rarest version omits any scale entirely, presenting just the chronograph subdials - likely an early or special-order configuration.
Why This Watch Matters
- The Only Oval Chronograph Movement Ever Mad – The Excelsior Park 42 (EP42) was a stroke of engineering genius, allowing Gallet to create compact yet fully functional chronograph at just 29mm.
- A Watch with a War Story – Knowing that this very model was worn by a Stalag Luft III POW adds an incredible layer of history.
- Tiny but Shockingly Wearable – On paper, 29mm sounds impossibly small. On the wrist, the bold dial elements and perfect proportions make it far more substantial than the dimensions suggest.
Vintage Chronographs Rise Again—But Without the Gallet Commander
Since Breitling acquired the brand, interest in Gallet appears to be surging. Alongside the revival of other vintage brands, chronographs have also seen growing attention. However, judging by their website, it seems Gallet has no plans to reintroduce the Commander model—which might actually be for the best.
Patience Pays Off
Vintage watch hunting is a mix of research, luck, and stubbornness. This Commander was a gamble—bad photos, minimal info, a last-minute bidding war—but that’s often where the best finds hide.
Now, every time I press that rectangular chronograph pusher and watch the 80-year-old movement spring to life, I’m reminded why the chase was worth it.
