It all started when I was doom-scrolling on Instagram and stumbled upon a Calatrava-style, time-only gold dress watch. The watch had all the features I adore: a clean dial, baton hands, and Calatrava-style indices. It was an Orient Grand Prix Special, often referred to as the "Calatrava made in Japan." The moment I saw it, I was captivated. The elegance and simplicity of the design resonated with me, and I was determined to find this watch for myself.
Below photos from: https://showalounge.ocnk.net/product/262
A Brief History of the Orient Grand Prix
The Orient Grand Prix series holds a special place in the history of Japanese watchmaking. In the early 1960s, Orient aimed to produce high-end watches that could compete with the best Swiss offerings. The Grand Prix line was one of Orient's first attempts at creating truly luxurious timepieces. Between 1961 and 1963, Orient released several Grand Prix models, initially using movements that were also found in other Orient watches but in higher quality grades. By 1963-1964, the flagship Grand Prix models received dedicated movements, marking a significant step forward in the brand's horological capabilities.
The Grand Prix Special was one of the earliest models, featuring a classic, time-only dress watch design. It housed Orient's N-Type caliber, which was also used in the Jupiter and Royal Orient models. However, the Grand Prix Special boasted 25 jewels, more than even the top Royal models, making it a premium offering at the time.
The Hunt for the Grand Prix
As soon as I discovered the Grand Prix Special, I began my search. I scoured online marketplaces and eventually found a listing on Yahoo Auctions. The seller had not only the Grand Prix Special but also another gem: the Orient Grand Prix Calendar Auto. This was a different beast altogether, featuring an automatic movement and a date complication. The Calendar Auto was part of the next generation of Grand Prix watches, which introduced the L-Type caliber, a more modern movement that laid the foundation for Orient's in-house movements for decades to come.
I bid on both watches, but unfortunately, I lost the auction for the Grand Prix Special. However, I was fortunate enough to win the Grand Prix Calendar Auto, and I couldn't be happier with my new acquisition.
The Orient Grand Prix Calendar Auto: A Closer Look
The Grand Prix Calendar Auto is a fascinating piece of horological history. Introduced in the early 1960s, it was one of the first Orient watches to feature the LCW automatic movement, which incorporated a Pellaton-type winding system. This system was more efficient and provided better shock resistance compared to other automatic winding systems of the era. The movement was also larger than most other Orient movements at the time, measuring 30.3mm, which resulted in a relatively large case for its era. This makes the watch feel surprisingly modern and wearable by today's standards.
The Calendar Auto is noticeably chunkier than the time-only Grand Prix Special, primarily due to the automatic winding mechanism. The watch features a clean, elegant dial with a date window at 3 o'clock, baton hands, and applied indices that catch the light beautifully. The case is polished to a high shine, giving it a luxurious feel that belies its age.
Strap Pairing: Elevating the Aesthetic
When I first received the Calendar Auto, I paired it with a brown Togo strap. The combination looked great, but it felt a bit too conventional. I wanted something that would make the watch stand out even more. That's when I decided to try an Alran green strap. The result was stunning. The green strap added a pop of color that elevated the watch's aesthetic, giving it a fresh, modern look while still maintaining its vintage charm. The combination of the polished gold case and the green strap created a striking contrast that I absolutely love.
This journey into the world of vintage Orient watches has opened up a rabbit hole for me. I can't wait to explore more of these hidden gems and share my discoveries with fellow watch enthusiasts. The Orient Grand Prix series is a testament to the brand's commitment to quality and innovation, and I feel privileged to own a piece of that legacy.
