As you can probably tell from my collection and posts, I typically gravitate toward dress watches. I never imagined I’d venture into dive watches, let alone military ones. However, while researching vintage Chinese watches, I discovered something I couldn’t ignore - China’s first-ever dive watch.
Shanghai SS2 and SS4 - China's first independently designed and manufactured dive Watch with automatic calendar movement for the Military
During the early years of the People's Republic of China, the People's Liberation Army (PLA) relied heavily on captured timepieces from Japanese and Nationalist forces. This dependence on foreign-made watches highlighted a critical gap in China's military industrial complex. However, by the mid-1960s, this narrative began to change dramatically with the emergence of the Shanghai Watch Factory.
In 1964, responding to specific requirements from the PLA's Second Department of the General Staff, the Shanghai Watch Factory 上海手表厂 embarked on an ambitious project. The military needed a watch that could withstand extreme conditions: shock-resistant, highly antimagnetic, and water-resistant up to 200 meters. The result was the legendary "114" series, which came in two distinguished variants: the 29-jewel ("zuan", mandarin pinyin of jewel) SS2 and the 24-jewel SS4 models.
The Shanghai SS2 and SS4 represented China's first independently designed and manufactured automatic calendar movement, marking a pivotal moment in the nation's horological history. The distribution system of these watches also reflected their prestigious status - the 29-jewel SS2 was reserved for officers at the division level and above, while the 24-jewel SS4 was issued to officers at the regiment level and above, earning them the nickname "Officer's Watches" ("军官表").
The attention to detail was evident in features like the luminous dial markers, which maintained their visibility even in complete darkness. The watches' durability and reliability made them indispensable tools for military operations.
Specifications of Shanghai SS4
The 24-jewel SS4 movement was produced, featuring a solid automatic rotor with "24 ZUAN" (24 jewels) text in pinyin, a large rotating bezel, and a screw-down crown. The SS2 movement's main plate had either a two-letter English steel stamp or no letters at all. The SS4 movement's main plate was marked with "SS4" plus one or two English letters stamped in steel.
Caseback and production numbers
The caseback of Shanghai military watches consisted of 6 to 8 digits, with the first two digits indicating the production year and the remaining digits showing the serial number for that year. (It’s “71” on mine.) Later productions featured either the Shanghai brand 上海牌 or Torch brand logo 火炬牌, with Torch-branded models having a torch symbol on the crown. According to internal pricing documents for Shanghai watches and eyewear from 1973, the Torch-branded 24-jewel military watch was priced at 180 yuan.
Production of these watches was shrouded in military secrecy, with manufacturing taking place in Workshop 307 of the Shanghai Watch Factory under the supervision of military representatives. The factory produced approximately 30,000 units before production ceased, making these watches highly sought-after collectors' items today. The strategic importance of these timepieces is further evidenced by the fact that the original molds were destroyed by military representatives, and the rotating bezel design was reportedly taken to Beijing for safekeeping.
How I style my Shanghai 24-jewel SS4, "Officer's Watches"
For a timepiece of such historical significance, selecting the right strap becomes an exercise in both preservation and presentation. I've paired my Officer's Watch with our Nubuck Moonstone black strap, a choice that pays homage to both the watch's military heritage and its sophisticated design elements. The matte surface of the nubuck leather creates a compelling visual dialogue with the watch's glossy black bezel.
Nubuck's subtle, velvety surface provides a sophisticated backdrop that allows the watch's robust military design elements to stand out. I specifically chose thread color that matches the case tone, creating a seamless visual flow that complements the watch's military aesthetic.
While the original piece was designed purely for military function, this pairing allows it to transition seamlessly between casual and formal settings while maintaining its distinctive character.
Final Thought
To be completely honest, I find myself being extra careful with this watch, maybe even too careful. It sits in my collection more than it rides on my wrist. You know how sometimes you treasure something so much you're almost afraid to use it? That's my relationship with this piece.
If you look really closely at the dial, you can spot some circular scratches in the middle area. These probably happened when the hands moved against bits of old lume that had fallen off over the years.
The calendar setting is pretty old school - no quick-set function like modern watches have. But you know what? I'm totally fine with that. It's part of what makes this watch special, a reminder of how things were done back then.
Sometimes I just sit with this watch alongside my other vintage Chinese pieces, and I can't help but wonder about its journey. Where has it been? What did its original owner see while wearing it? What missions might it have been part of? Each scratch and mark could tell a story, if only watches could talk.
This might sound a bit sentimental, but there's something really special about holding a piece of history like this. Thanks for letting me share these thoughts with you.