After a two-week business trip to Europe, I felt the sudden urge to text my therapist—or, as I like to call him, my "drug dealer" (the guy who sells me Chinese vintage watches). I asked if he was parting with any of his treasures, and unsurprisingly, he replied with a photo of two watches. One of them was a piece I never imagined I’d see in person. After a full 60 seconds of deliberation, I caved: “Yeah, I’ll take it.”
I first read about this watch early in my research into Chinese vintage timepieces. Nearly every article on vintage Shanghai watches mentions this model— Shanghai A623 was most famously worn by the late and revered Prime Minister Zhou Enlai 周恩来. It’s so iconic that collectors often refer to it as the “总理表” (the Prime Minister’s Watch).
The Story (Feel Free to Skip—I Won’t Mind)
There are two versions of how this watch ended up on Zhou’s wrist, but both agree on one thing: he insisted on paying for it himself. According to The Memoirs of Zhou Enlai’s Chief Guard by Cheng Yuangong 周恩來總理衛士長回憶錄 - 成元功, who served the Prime Minister for over two decades, Zhou was delighted when he saw a newspaper advertisement announcing Shanghai Watch Factory’s new range of functional wristwatches. He immediately bought Shanghai A623 — and wore it proudly during a subsequent delegation meeting in Moscow. Others claim he wanted to support domestic manufacturing. Either way, the story ends the same—he wore it until his death in 1976, and multiple photographs capture it on his wrist. Today, that very timepiece is preserved in the collection of the Chinese People’s Revolutionary Military Museum.
Shanghai A623’s straight lugs give it a distinct military aesthetic, setting it apart from other vintage Chinese pieces. Some collectors even classify it as a military watch since, back then, you needed a permit to buy one.
About the dial - only the essentials remain. "17 ZUAN" (17 jewels), "FANG ZHEN" (anti-shock), and the proud declaration "ZHONGGUO SHANGHAI" (China, Shanghai) stand as both technical specifications and a quiet manifesto. In an era when "Made in China" wasn't yet a global phenomenon, this unapologetic labeling feels revolutionary.
As a collector, I particularly cherish Shanghai Watch Factory's original logo—an art deco-inspired building silhouette that crowns both the winding stem and caseback.
A Lesson in Authenticity
A great teacher never scolds you for asking dumb questions—but that doesn’t mean you won’t feel foolish. The dial was so pristine that I couldn’t help asking Mr. T if it was a redial. His response? “I don’t collect redials.” Cue instant embarrassment. He then pointed out the crisp printing (especially the character “震”), the subtle imperfections in the silver dial, and the tiny flaws around the hands—all signs of originality. Redials, he explained, would have scruff marks near the indices.
The Movement: A Small Revolution
Given China’s economic state in the 1950s and ’60s, perfecting even a basic timekeeping movement was an achievement. So the fact that this Shanghai A623 features a calendar complication is remarkable—a genuine breakthrough in Chinese watchmaking. It doesn’t have a quick-date set, but that’s a minor quibble. What I love is the red date wheel, which reminds me of the roulette date on a Datejust I once owned. Except now, I get to see that pop of red every single day.
The Quirky Cyclops
Speaking of the Datejust, this watch also has a cyclops—something I adore. I’m not entirely sure, but this might be the first Chinese watch ever to feature one. As an early attempt, the execution is… let’s say rustic. The magnifier is crudely attached, causing some blurring around the edges. But honestly? I don’t mind at all.
An Immense Privilege
Owning this watch is an immense privilege—one that comes with profound responsibility. More than just a timekeeper, it represents a pivotal moment in Chinese history, both horologically and culturally. Zhou Enlai wasn’t just a premier; he was a architect of modern China, a leader who carried this very watch through meetings that shaped a nation. To preserve it is to honor that legacy.
For many collectors, the Shanghai A623 is the ultimate grail. For me? It’s the end piece—the crown jewel of my collection. But the hunt isn’t over. There are more stories to uncover, more vintage Chinese watches waiting to connect me to the past. For now, though, I’ll let this one keep time—just as it did for a man who devoted every minute to his people.
Choice of Straps
For the perfect strap pairing, I always reach for a rich brown Alran Chèvre Sully. It’s the ideal balance of understated elegance and everyday practicality—soft enough for comfort, yet durable enough to last. But what really makes it special is how the warm brown leather harmonizes with the watch’s gold accents, creating a look that’s both vintage and timeless. No fuss, no pretension—just pure synergy between form and function.
