I recently embarked on a 1.5-day adventure in Tokyo, squeezing in some serious vintage watch hunting before heading to the serene landscapes of Kawaguchiko to celebrate my girlfriend's birthday. The contrast between the bustling energy of Tokyo and the serene landscapes of Kawaguchiko couldn't have been more stark, but that's a story for another day. Today, I want to share my experiences hunting for vintage timepieces in the heart of Japan's capital, Tokyo.
Mapping the Horological Treasure Hunt
Before setting foot in Tokyo, I mapped out all the vintage shops on Google map. My ambitious goal: to explore four vintage watch shops in just 36 hours. The targets on my list were Curios Curio, Cares, Shellman, and Timanagram. I ended up only visiting three of them, as visiting Timeanagram strictly requires a reservation - another excuse to travel to Tokyo again.
While I had a general idea of what I was after—vintage 1950-60s chronographs—I kept an open mind about specific brands. My previous experiences with modern chronographs hadn't quite clicked, so I was eager to see if their vintage counterparts would spark that connection.
The Journey Begins: Carese - A Tale of Two Branches
Marunouchi: Elegance Amidst the Corporate Giants
My first stop was Carese, a name that had been whispered reverently in watch circles for years. With three shops in Tokyo, their presence alone was impressive. I began at their Marunouchi branch, an oasis of elegance nestled among high-end branded shops, just a stone's throw from the towering offices of trading giants like Mitsui and the bustling Tokyo Station.
The collection at the Marunouchi branch was mostly ladies' pieces and simpler men's watches. An oversized 1940 Eterna caught my eye, proudly displayed near the entrance. Its clean case and dial were undeniably attractive, but the price tag gave me pause. As I prepared to leave, a perceptive staff member, sensing my quest for something different, directed me to their main branch in Morishita.
Morishita: Stepping Back in Time
The next day, I found myself in Morishita, a neighborhood that felt worlds apart from the corporate sheen of Marunouchi. Here, among mom-and-pop shops and the whispers of old Tokyo, the storefront of the Carese main branch really stands out in the neighbourhood.
As I stepped inside, I was greeted by a gentleman whose impeccable dress sense matched the shop's refined atmosphere. The interior was a stunning contrast to the Marunouchi branch—carpeted floors, shiny tiled walls, retro light fixtures and wooden display boxes added to the feeling that I had stepped into a watch enthusiast's personal office.
A Lemania Chronograph immediately caught my eye. The bronze hands, the sector dial design, and the Lemania logo—a detail I've always admired. Sadly, it was out of my budget, but it set the tone for the treasures I was about to discover.
Two pieces in particular demanded my attention:
1. An Omega rectangular watch: This piece was a study in contrasts. The unusually dark case, which I learned was actually silver that had developed a beautiful patina, acted as a perfect frame for the pristine white dial. The large Art Deco styled Arabic numerals offers exceptional legibility. Even the patina forming at the dial's edge couldn't detract from its charm—if anything, it added character.
2. A Longines with a twist: At first glance, I mistook this for a monopusher chronograph because of the button at 2 o'clock position. However, as the gentleman at the shop demonstrated, this was something far more intriguing. The button actually reset the continuously running second hand back to 12 o'clock—a feature I'd never encountered before. The 30.5mm case might sound small, but the dial design made it wear larger. The dark sector insert on the dial, which the staff assured me was incredibly rare, provided a striking backdrop for the applied gold Breguet numerals.
What struck me most about Carese was their commitment to the in-person experience. Many of the watches I saw weren't available online at the time — a deliberate strategy to reward those who make the pilgrimage to their stores. In an age of digital dominance, this old-school approach felt refreshingly authentic and respectful to true watch enthusiasts.
Curious-Curio: A Military-Themed Hidden Gem
Finding Curious-Curio was an adventure in itself. Tucked away on the third floor of an unassuming building with a glass façade, it felt like I was entering someone's private residence rather than a watch shop. After ascending three flights of stairs, I found myself in front of an inconspicuous door. A press of the doorbell later, I was greeted by two gentlemen in shirts, ushering me into a world where horology meets military history.
Picture from Curious Curio^
The shop's atmosphere was a complete departure from Carese. Every inch exuded a military theme, from the decor to the carefully arranged objects complementing the watches. The timepieces themselves were displayed neatly in a large display box.
Two watches in particular caught my eye:
1. A black dial Lemania chronograph from the 1940s: This compact 31mm beauty housed the Lemania cal. 27.CH movement. Its original numbered snap-on case back was intact, a detail that always excites vintage enthusiasts. The sword-shaped hands and Arabic numerals, once luminous, had faded to a warm orange tone that spoke of its long history Despite its small size, the dial proportions were perfectly balanced, making it a joy to behold.
2. A Gallet MultiChron 45M from the 1950s: This 37mm chronograph was powered by the popular Excelsior Park 4 movement, featuring a 45-minute counter. The dial was a masterclass in functional beauty—a blue tachymeter scale on the outer edge, a red telemeter scale within, and radium indices that had aged gracefully. Yes, there were signs of wear—some fading around 12 o'clock and small scratches on the dial—but these imperfections only added to its charm and authenticity. The snap caseback was surprisingly clean and intact, which I later was reassured by the shop staff that it's original.
The Gallet, in particular, spoke to me. Its size, complexity, and history were compelling. As I prepared to leave, I realized it was already 6:30 PM—30 minutes past their usual closing time. The staff's graciousness in accommodating my late visit left a lasting impression.
Shellman: Luxury in the Heart of Ginza
My final stop was Shellman in Ginza, a name that needs no introduction. The ground floor was a paradise for Rolex enthusiasts, with an impressive array of Bubblebacks catching the light. Interspersed among these were elegant Movado and Universal Geneve timepieces and a few select chronographs.
But it was the "special area" on the second floor that truly took my breath away. Here, among the rarefied air of haute horlogerie, sat vintage Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe models that were nothing short of horological royalty.
Back on the ground floor, three pieces in particular caught my attention:
1. A Movado triple calendar: A complication that always intrigues me, especially in its vintage form.
2. Another Movado, this time with Breguet numerals and a small seconds subdial: A study in elegant simplicity.
3. A gold IWC time-only piece: This was the showstopper for me. The reverse twisted lugs were a design element I'd never seen before, adding a unique flair to the watch. The dial was a masterpiece of restraint—apart from the 12 and 6 numerals, the other indices were tiny gold pyramids. The monochromatic gold scheme lent it an air of timeless elegance that was hard to resist.
A short reflections on a very tired watch hunting journey
This 1.5 days of Tokyo's vintage watch hunting journey was both eye opening and educational. Each shop offered not just watches, but a unique atmosphere that reflected different facets of the city's character. From the polished elegance of Carese's dual personalities to the hidden military charm of Curios Curio and the unabashed luxury of Shellman, each stop added a new dimension to my understanding and appreciation of vintage timepieces.
For fellow watch enthusiasts planning a similar trip, I've compiled a detailed Tokyo watch shop list that I'd be happy to share. And as for what I actually ended up bringing home from this trip? Well, that's a story for another time.