Why This Universal Genève Calatrava Made Me Rethink Dress Watches

There's something special about finding the perfect vintage watch. In my collection, the 14k gold Universal Genève Calatrava holds a unique place - it's the piece that completely changed my perspective on how to wear dress watches. While it might be considered one of the dressier pieces I own, I've found myself constantly reaching for it, even when I'm just heading out in jeans and a t-shirt.

The Overlooked Beauty in Universal Genève's Legacy

When most people talk about Universal Genève, they immediately jump to the famous Polerouter (yes, that Genta-designed masterpiece) or their stunning chronographs. Some might even mention the elusive White Shadow. But here's what many miss: the Calatrava collection from Universal Genève is a hidden treasure trove of timeless design.

Vintage 14k gold Universal Genève Calatrava watch on hand with brown Alran leather strap, showing distinctive lug design and cream dial with gold indices

Those Lugs Though...

Let's talk about what really made me fall for this watch - the lugs. In a world of dress watches that often play it safe, these lugs add just enough personality to make the watch stand out without screaming for attention. When I first got this piece, it came in its original clamshell box with this gorgeous reddish-brown velvet lining - the kind of detail that makes vintage watch hunting so rewarding.

Vintage 14k gold Universal Genève Calatrava watch on hand with brown Alran leather strap, showing distinctive lug design and cream dial, epsom straps

Breaking Away from the Dress Watch Rulebook

Here's something I've learned: just because a watch is gold and dressy doesn't mean it needs to be confined to formal occasions. I've found that this Calatrava has become my go-to piece for almost any outfit. There's something about the way it sits on the wrist that just works, whether you're in a boardroom or grabbing coffee on a Saturday morning.

Finding the Perfect Strap Match

While many collectors stick to traditional choices like Epsom leather or Nubuck leather for their gold watches (and don't get me wrong, those are beautiful options), I've discovered that this watch takes on a completely different character with contemporary straps. I've been particularly enjoying it on Alran leather straps - both in Sepia Brown and Midnight Black. The 16mm lug width is a bit unusual by today's standards, but that's where custom straps come into play.

Why This Watch Matters

For anyone considering a vintage dress watch, here's why the Universal Genève Calatrava deserves your attention:

It's a masterclass in versatile design
The details (especially those lugs) set it apart
It carries real horological history
It's still somewhat under-the-radar compared to other brands
It proves that dress watches don't need to be boring or restrictive

Vintage 14k gold Universal Genève Calatrava watch on hand with brown Alran leather strap, showing distinctive lug design and cream dial, alran straps

Making It Your Own

What I've learned from wearing this watch is that the right strap can completely transform its character. While this particular model needs a 16mm strap (which falls outside standard sizes), finding the perfect custom strap is worth the extra effort. It's these personal touches that make a watch truly yours.

Looking to give your own vintage timepiece a fresh look? Whether you have a Universal Genève or another classic piece, we specialize in crafting straps that complement these timeless watches, including custom sizes for unique cases like the Calatrava's 16mm lugs. --> Made-to-order program

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